MATERIALS
You will need sufficient labor to help lift and maneuver the pieces
into position. Some pieces can be quite heavy (multiply the area
by 20 pounds per square foot to get the weight). Not only do you
need to carry these pieces, but you need many hands to maneuver them
into
place. ALWAYS carry pieces vertically - never horizontal.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
You will need the following tools and
materials:
- An ample supply of good quality clear silicone sealant (This
sealant provides the necessary flexible and waterproof adhesion
for the granite)
- Epoxy Glue
- A razor blade scraper
- Paper Towels
- A level
- A 4� metal straight edge.
- Some wooden wedges (to level granite until silicone cures)
- Alcohol and rags
- A belt sander (to sand and level cabinets if necessary)
- A jig saw (to cut cabinets if necessary)
- Some 2 x 4 pieces (to brace sink until silicone cures)
- Help, to carry and maneuver pieces from vertical to
horizontal.
- A diamond saw may be necessary to adjust joints, fit pieces
or cut backsplashes into place.
- String (to check for level)
- Carpet scraps or pieces of cardboard
PREPARATION
All the cabinets need to be installed. You will
need to have on hand at
the site any items that will be installed into the counter - sinks,
faucets, cooktops, etc.
Check for level - use your 4� straight edge or
string to make
sure the tops of the cabinets are level. Sand any edges that are too high. Add
small wood
wedges with silicone in areas too low.
Granite can span 24" and can cantilever 14". Provide wood blocking and
support
for larger gaps.
Make sure the granite is at room temperature. If it is cold, moisture may
condense and
the silicone won�t stick properly.
CAREFULLY un�crate your granite. Granite will receive its most stress during
uncrating
and installing, which means if it is going to break at all, it will be during
this time.
Your crate will be constructed with screws. Unscrew sequentially and remove
pieces one at
a time. Make sure you have a place to put each piece. ALWAYS carry and store
each piece
vertically. Have some cardboard and/or carpet straps available to set the
pieces down.
PROCEDURE
Install any "locked" pieces first - those with
other
pieces seamed
to them.
Installation can be simple. Make sure that the surfaces supporting
the granite are
level. Place the piece to make sure it will fit. Remove the piece and apply an
ample bead of
silicone sealant on all contact edges. Place the piece.
Continue with the next adjoining piece. Be sure to put a bead of silicone on
the joint
between pieces.
If you run into fit problems - perhaps your template was not quite accurate,
you may
have to adjust your seam with a new cut with a diamond saw. This is a rather
major procedure and
should be left to the experts.
Sometimes a fit problem can be remedied by cutting a small channel into
the drywall to fit the granite. Drywall will be thicker at seams
and in the corners and can result in an uneven fit unless the drywall has
a channel to fit the granite.
Make sure you have plenty of hands available to maneuver the granite from a
vertical carry
into a horizontal position. Without sufficient support, you could crack a
piece.
A large
kitchen may require some adjustments to all pieces after installation. Make sure
you are still
able to move pieces before the silicone sets.
Some seams without sufficient support or in a high stress area should
be joined with epoxy instead of silicone. You may have to temporarily
support
or brace pieces until the epoxy or silicone is set.
Undermount Sinks are best installed to the granite counter
before the granite is installed. First, lay the granite piece in
place and make sure it fits correctly and that the sink has all
necessary
clearances to fit. You may have to cut some wood of the cabinets
away for sufficient clearance. Check also at this time for clearances
for faucets and other plumbing. Again, you may have to trim some
wood.
Make sure the granite has been at room temperature for at least 4 hours and
is dry. If not, the sealant may not adhere properly.
Lay the granite
piece upside down on the floor. Clean the area of contact thoroughly with
alcohol
and allow to dry thoroughly. (at least 2 hours).
Attach the sink with ample
silicone.
Heavier sinks (enameled cast iron) should have small holes drilled (diamond
drill in impact
drill) on a FULLY supported granite piece to a depth of about �". Fill with a
lead shield and screw sink tabs into shields. Use the
silicone sealant and the tabs. Allow silicone to fully cure (usually about 24
hours)
Backsplashes are installed by placing a bead of silicone along the top
edge to
adhere to the wall and a bead along the bottom for sealing and adhering to the
counter.
You may discover that your drywall is not a straight surface - this is common
since
drywall compound is built up in joints and at corners. You may have to cut into
the drywall with your utility knife to situate the backsplash with a minimum of
gaps. You can test this ahead of hand with your 4� straight edge or your string.
Some additional information about...
Breakage:
Although granite
is one of the most durable and strongest materials you can use for countertops,
you
can break a piece if you subject it to excessive bending stresses. This means
that all pieces need to be well supported during maneuvering and installation,
especially long
pieces and pieces with cutouts. ALWAYS carry pieces vertically. Make sure you
have
enough hands to support the piece during maneuvering. Granite receives its
greatest stress
during transportation and installation.
Adjustments: Occasionally, your templates could be in error and the
granite needs
to be adjusted or cut. After cutting, you may have to polish the cut, which
also requires
special tools and equipment. Granite can only be cut with special diamond blade
saws and drills.
Unless you have the equipment and experience to accomplish this task, it would
be better
to hire this done professionally.